A&P Nursery

While there aren’t as many days in Phoenix Valley that get frost per year, it does happen.  If your plants are damaged by frost it can seriously harm or kill them.  This means you won’t have the fresh fruit or vegetables you expect from your garden.  Learn how to protect plants from frost in the Phoenix Valley.

Protecting Plants From Frost

In the Phoenix Valley the average first day of frost varies from Nov 21^st in Buckeye to around December 12^th in central Phoenix.  End of frost risk days also vary throughout the valley from around the 3^rd of April in Mesa and 7^th of February in central Phoenix.  The difference in climate is due to a number of factors such as population density, pavement, concrete, and elevation.

While the average lows hover around in the 40’s during the colder parts of the year, serious gardeners will want to prepare for the occasional winter frost.   To do so you need to understand cold weather, how plants react to cold, the transfer of heat, how to avoid frost damage, frost damage symptoms, and how to treat plants that have been damaged by frost.

Cold Weather

Understanding how cold weather, wind, humidity, and heat loss is important to preventing frost in your garden.  Knowing when to take action and the factors that will affect the risk for frost will help you protect your hard work and investment.

• During the day the sun warms soil and then that heat is radiated into the cool atmosphere at might.
• The coldest part of virtually every day is just before daybreak
• Cloudy nights insulate and reflect that heat back down.
• The greatest risk for frost is on calm clear nights. This is because there is no wind to mix warmer air and no clouds to reflect heat back down.
• Humidity dictates how slowly the temperature can change. The drier the air the faster the temperature can swing low at night.  This is obviously a major factor for the Phoenix Valley with our arid climate.
• By comparing the temperatures reported on the news verses temperature readings you collect in your garden you can predict potential frost nights. If the news is consistently 5 degrees higher, you know you should expect frost event when the news says it will be 37°F.
• Cold air always flows downward through canyons and even around your landscape. That means that if you have a slope or low point in your garden this section is at greater risk.
• While some winds might help bring warmer air cold north winds during the winter can compound the heat loss in your garden.

How Plants React To Cold

The way that plants react to cold will vary with a few different factors.  Plants of different kinds, age, stage of growth, water content, and general health will react differently.  The plants that are dehydrated, actively growing, flowering, or are young will be more vulnerable to frost. While short days and colder weather typically put most plants in a state of dormancy, it is not always the case in Phoenix as we do have some unseasonably warm days.  This increases the need to be vigilant in preventing frost if your plants are actively growing during frost risk days of winter.

How To Protect Your Plants From Frost

The first thing you can do is choose plants for your garden which are naturally frost tolerant.  A second option is to place the more frost sensitive plants or trees on the southern and western sides of your garden where they typically get the most sunlight and warmth.  Also placing these plants near patios, rocks, or block walls will help keep them warm as these structures collect and radiate heat.

For plants which are frost tolerant it is best to put them in the lower and colder areas of your landscape to keep them dormant as long as possible. This helps avoid flowering too early and potential damage to fruit.

Frost Cloth & Covering Plants

You can help keep plants warm and avoid frost by using frost cloth or paper, never use plastic to cover your plants.   Frost cloth can be purchased from your local nursery, or you can use blankets and sheets for the coldest nights.  Frost cloth typically protects your plants down to about 30°F, while the most effective are rated for 20°F.

Make sure you completely cover the plant over the top and so the cloth or blanket reaches the ground.  Trap the warm air effectively and it will protect your plant.  Property applied cloths will trap the humidity and heat to insulate your plant.  Let the cloth or sheet naturally drape straight down to the soil, never draw it in and tie it around the trunk or base.

Note on sheets and blankets – If you’ve used sheets or blankets for frost protection you must remove them each morning when the temperature reaches 50°F.  In southern Arizona it is harmful to plants to keep them covered with blankets or sheets for extended periods of time. While it is unlikely that the temperature inside the blanket cover will not “cook” your plant it may be enough to wake it from winter dormancy.

Proper Care Helps Avoid Frost

While no level of care will make your plants invulnerable to frost proper care for them will make them more resistant and resilient. It’s important to avoid dehydrated plants by keeping them well watered.  Plants are damaged when ice crystals form on leaves surfaces.  The plant is dehydrated and damages itself trying to absorb ice crystals.

It’s also important to keep a careful eye on the distribution of water, keep it even throughout your garden.  Your soil will also retain more heat if it is dry, loose, and is covered with vegetation or mulch.  You can invest in frost cloth and covers to help avoid the worst of the frost, but don’t over protect.  Plants which are exposed to some colder temperatures will be more resilient to cold weather.

East Phoenix Valley Nurseries

For the best stock in trees and plants for your garden and landscape trust A&P Nursery.  We grow our stock locally right here in the east valley, so you know it is already ready to survive in our climate.  We can help you choose frost resistant plants, plant out your placement, and provide frost cloths for the coldest parts of the year.

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The ocotillo is one of the most beautiful and otherworldly plants seen in Arizona landscapes.  With long thin columns and bright red or orange blooms they add a real punch to the visual appearance of your landscape. While many think of it as a succulent it is technically a woody shrub, and must be cared for differently than succulents.

Mature ocotillo are grown in the desert and then transferred to containers for sale at nursery locations.  This process does leave the plant with a challenged root system so proper care is critical to successfully growing your ocotillo.

Selecting Ocotillo For Your Arizona Landscape

Ocotillo sold at local Arizona nurseries typically sell them as bare-root specimen.  The vertical canes will be tied together and they will be standing up against a wall or stacked for you to view them.  When there is space some nurseries will plant the ocotillo in beds of sand.  It is important to inspect the ocotillo to get the best specimen.

Check The Roots

The root system is a major factor in choosing which ocotillo to purchase.  The bigger the root system, the better chance you have of successfully planting your new ocotillo.  Not only should you pay attention to the size of the root system, but you should watch out for broken or damaged roots.

Buy Fresh Stock

A key of getting the best stock is to find out which are the freshest ocotillo.  While big box nurseries many times have their stock shipped in from out of state, Arizona enjoys having local nurseries which grow ocotillo locally in the Phoenix Valley.  These local nurseries only harvest ocotillo when needed to replenish stock at locations, allowing for the freshest plants anywhere.

Choosing Between Great Stock

If everything is equal, all of great roots, and they are all fresh, how do you choose?  Lift the plants to find the heaviest ocotillo possible.  The weight is an indication of how much water is in the plant and the more water you have, the better chance you have.  You may be able to request an ocotillo and specific the largest root system possible.

How To Plant The Ocotillo

With you ocotillo chosen and transported to your home or office it’s time to get it in the ground. Follow these steps to get it done right and have the best chance of it growing healthy. Make sure you leave the canes (vertical columns) tied up so handling is easier.

Remove Broken Roots

No matter how carefully the ocotillo is removed from the soil it was grown in, there will be some damaged roots.  It is important to prune the damaged sections off.  But it is equally important to leave as much as possible, so don’t get carried away like Edward Shearhands.

Condition The Roots

Before planting in the soil it is a good idea to revitalize the roots with root hormone and to let the roots soak.  This “wakes” the roots up and gets the plant ready for spreading out into the soil in your landscape.  The success of your plant depends on the size, condition, and how quickly your root system takes hold its new habitat.

Dig The Hole & Amend Soil

The hole you dig for your ocotillo should be a foot wider and deeper than the roots of the ocotillo.  The soil you dig out of the ground should be amended with sand if you don’t already have a well draining soil.  The ocotillo is accustomed to living in arid environments and watering in urban or suburban locations provide more water than they would ever experience in nature.  This makes well draining soil critical to avoiding root rot. The sand content of your soil should be at about 30%.

Planting It In The Hole

Before setting your ocotillo into its new home, you should place some of your backfill soil in the bottom of your hole to begin.  Then set the ocotillo so that the base of the plant is level with the rest of the ground.  Backfill the rest of the soil around the plant and tamp it down around the roots.  Be exceedingly careful not to damage the roots while planting your ocotillo. Create a moat around the edge of the hole to help with new watering.

Untie & Check For Position

Once your ocotillo is standing on its own it is time to untie the canes and check to make sure it is standing up straight. It should look upright and not lean to either side.  If it does gentle correct the lean and have a friend tamp the soil as you do this to help secure it.

How To Water Newly Planted Ocotillo

As will all plants the ocotillo has need for water, and should be done immediately after planting.  As the ocotillo is a shrub it will need deep watering along with spraying or misting the canes.  The cane are believed to naturally absorb surface water from rainstorms, so spraying them adds moisture directly to the plant.

Year Round Watering For New Ocotillo

The ocotillo should be watered about once a month in cooler months.  For the hot months the ocotillo should be watered about once a week for the first year or two.  It’s important to provide the water but it is also important to have well draining soil and not overdo it.  Excessive or constant water will lead to root rot, and ultimately kill your ocotillo.  This makes drip systems less than ideal as they are designed to provide constant watering.

Established Ocotillo Watering

The ocotillo, once fully established, will not need supplemental watering unless it is an excessively hot and dry summer.  While it may bloom in its first year, this is not a sign that it is established and does not need watering. They also leaf out follow rain storms, which is a great sign, but does not mean it is established.  It is important to allow 2 years for it to establish itself before ceasing watering.  For the largest plants you should do 3 years of supplemental watering.

Buy Ocotillo In Arizona

If you’re looking for the best place to buy ocotillo in Arizona, A&P Nursery is your source for the best specimen.  We grow our stock locally in the Phoenix Valley, so you’re getting the freshest plants who are already accustom to growing in the area.  We have all the tools and fertilizers you need to get started and even offer planting services.  Stop by one of our 4 locations to view our stock of ocotillo and choose your’s today!

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If you’re searching for “square foot gardening” or “pros & cons of square foot gardening”, you’re probably just trying to plan your new garden.  They offer gardeners a orderly and neat looking garden, but are they the best way to grow vegetables?

What Is A Square Foot Garden?

If you’ve browsed through gardening magazines or watched some HGTV you’ve probably seen a few raise garden beds which are divided perfectly into squares.  Each little square has its own type of plant.  It looks incredibly organized, yet is it the best way to grow vegetables?  We will explore if square foot gardening is the best way to grow your veggies in this post to help you decide what kind of garden you want to set up.

Who Started Square Foot Gardening?

Square foot gardening is an incredibly popular method of gardening which involved making highly productive kitchen gardens with limited space.  The technique was developed and invented by Mel Martholomew and introduced to the public in 1981.  It involved sectioning off a raised garden bed into 1 foot by 1 foot squares to grow individual types of plants.

Square Foot Gardening Concept

The idea is to create a small garden and divide it into a grid of 1 square foot sections. The size of the gardens vary but are usually 4 foot wide and either 4 foot long, or 8 foot long.  This is done so you can reach the plants in the middle by not exceeding a reasonable reach.  Seedlings or seeds of each kind of vegetable are planted in each square.

Plant Density Per Square Foot

How many individual plants is dictated by how large each type of plant will grow.  An example is a tomato plant takes up a lot more space than radishes, so you’d only plant one tomato plant.  Whereas with radishes you could pack a whopping 16 seeds in that same square foot. One huge advantage of square foot gardening is that there are no paths between rows, and no wasted space.  The soil also stays loose and there’s no chance of you stepping on plants.

Square Foot Gardening Pros

Square foot gardening offers gardeners a quick way to grow a lot of veggies with minimal effort.

Quick Set Up

For people wanting to jump into gardening quickly square foot gardening is a great option. Easy gardening kits can be set up just about anywhere including over pavement or grass.  This means it takes less than a day to set it up, fill with soil, and plant your garden.  Even if you aren’t planning to use a raised garden or easy gardening kit a square foot garden makes it easy to section off your existing soil and get started.

Highly Productive

When you plan and use your space efficiently you will get more out of your garden per square foot.  Seeds and plants are carefully selected and planted in greater density which means a greater yield.  When you want to maximize your gardening efforts, square foot gardening is a great tool to get your biggest bang from your gardening buck.

Virtually No Weeding

If you use a raised gardening set up with a soilless mix for your plants there will be very few if any weeds.  This is because there won’t be any weed seeds in the soil you buy and fill your square foot garden with.  Over time they can blow into your garden, but if it is raised or laid on concrete there is less chance of it compared to a regular traditional garden.

Minimal Effort

As the gardens are smaller and there are only so many types of plants it requires less effort and maintenance per day.  The time required for planting, and harvesting your veggies is considerably less. This is made even easier should you decide to have a raised square foot garden which removes the need to kneel or bend down to do your gardening.

Square Foot Gardening Cons

The downsides to this type of gardening is they may require more watering, have limited size, and may cost more than just planting in the ground.

Intensive Watering

Soil in raised garden beds does dry out faster than soil on the ground. In hotter weather it may mean that daily watering becomes part of your routine.  Automatic watering options such as drip irrigation or soaker hoses can make this much easier and require less manual watering.  Combined with organic mulch you can manage your need for watering.

Limited Depth

Many popular plants need more than 6” of depth to grow properly.  This means that gardeners wanting to grow their favorite plants may need to ensure that they have enough room in their raised beds by building deeper containers.  Some gardeners prefer to double the depth and go to a full foot deep.  Keep in mind the supports for your raised garden bed must be built to support the additional weight.

Limited Width

Some popular plants take up an incredible amount of room and are not ideal for square foot gardening.  Things like sweet corn, winter squash, or asparagus should be grown in traditional row gardens.  Square foot gardening is ideal for things like radishes, carrots, tomatoes, and herbs.  Plan ahead and consider the mature size of each of the different types of plants you want to grow.  Use your square foot garden for the more compact options in your garden.

Potentially Costly Build

If the soil you have in your garden isn’t of good quality you should consider purchasing soil from your local nursery.  Soilless mix also is more costly and is a option that many avoid to keep the cost of their garden down.  The cost of building the raised garden bed is also a factor which can be avoided by either growing on the ground, or by buying an inexpensive gardening kit.

Starting Your Square Foot Garden In Arizona

If you live in the Phoenix Valley and want to start you own square foot garden A&P Nursery has 4 locations in the Phoenix Valley to serve you.  With the best locally grown plants and easy gardening kits we can give you a head start at vegetable gardening in Arizona.  Visit our easy gardening kit page to see our options, call us with questions, or simply stop by one of our locations to get started!

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If you’re wondering how much pruning your tree needs in the fall, this post will make clear exactly how much you need.

Fall is that time of year that really makes people want to start pruning more than a vampire craves blood. With the fall garden clean up starting, maybe it might be all the mulching raking that is causing people to go insane. Before you begin hacking at your bushes and trees, take a bit of advice from a gardening expert.

Fall Tree Pruning

The rules for fall pruning is simple. Just don’t prune during the fall. That means nothing, zilch, zero, nada during the fall. That goes for plants and shrubs and even trees. Make a sign that states leave the pruning alone until winter or spring. There isn’t any type of exceptions. Don’t prune during the fall.

If you feel as if you got scolded by a teacher, then let that be a reminder that fall isn’t the time that you are supposed to trim your shrubs and trees, even though that the leaves that have fallen off have really exposed the imperfections. Put those pruning shears back into your shed until winter or longer. Below are a few pruning basics that you can use whenever it is time to trim back your shrubs and trees which is much safer:

Understand why Fall isn’t the best time to prune

It should be stressed that pruning your shrubs and trees now will stimulate new growth when your plants are trying to go dormant and this will weaken your plant. If you prune during a warm day then sap will rise up through your plant then the temperature drops to below freezing at night and then you don’t have anything that is pretty.

Instead of pruning in the fall, prune in the dead of winter or during early spring. That is if you can stop yourself. Spring bloomers will often get their haircut after they have finished flowering, but get over this weird obsession with pruning, you need to know that there are fruit trees and only a few plants that actually need to be pruned and many gardeners will prune too much and not too little.

Still, properly pruning overgrown fruit tress or flowering shrubs near your home will help those plants to produce more fruit and flowers, which benefits wildlife. Doing it wisely can even help your trees and plants a way to fend of pests and diseases. Just remember, don’t prune during the fall. Waiting until it is winter means that your plants are mostly dormant and because the leaves have fallen, you can easily see what you are doing. For those early spring bloomers that only need light pruning, it is best to do so right after they have finished blooming. For the overgrown shrubs, winter pruning is much better.

Don’t Prune when it is wet

Just a general rule, don’t prune anything if it is damp outside. Don’t prune if it is wet because it will spread diseases. Damp weather actually encourages microbe growth which makes the most of the damage that pruning does. You will want to wait until the sun has been out for a while and then it dries out and kills the bacteria and mold.

Know how to Hack

Pruning can actually add more air and sunlight to filter through your shrubs and trees, which helps to keep them really healthy. Whenever it is time for you to prune, you need to focus on removing dying or dead branches. If you see a sick brank, cut between the healthy and diseases spot. It is also recommended that you prune whenever branches cross each other or rub each other, or if the branch is growing vertically. You can take off the low branches that mess with foot traffic or your lawnmowers. Cut the branch as close to the source of the plant as you can. It is best to prune back to the main stem. If you leave a stub that is sticking out, it is a place where insects and bacteria can live. You also want to cut at the same angle that your branch collar is, which is near the furrow of bark where the trunk and branch meet. If you have done it right, then a circle of healthy callus will swell up around that spot.

Know what you are hacking

There is a really long list of shrubs and trees that you can prune from winter until sap starts back up in spring. Some of them are beauty berries, Callory pears, poplar, junipers, cherries, glossy abelia, hydrangeas, crabapples, Bradford pears, spruce, sumac and plums. But, just because some trees can ooze sap whenever they are pruned in the winter, you are best to wait until summer to prune elm, dogwoods, maples, walnuts and birches.

Keep your tools clean

It doesn’t matter what type of pruning tools you are going to use; you need to make sure that you are keeping them clean. If you happen to have cut out diseased branches, you want to make sure that you have thoroughly cleaned your tools before you move onto another tree, which helps to avoiding spreading diseases. You should disinfect your tools by using one to two teaspoons of bleach to warm water. You can also use soapy hot water which will kill most germs and remember to dry your tools very well afteryou have washed them. If you are unable to trim from the ground using a pole pruner or if you need to prune around a power line, then hire a professional instead of climbing up high and doing it all on your own.

Do your homework

We offer general pruning guidelines, but if you are wanting more specific information on your shrubs and trees that are growing on your property, then ask your master gardeners who are involved with your local tree nursery.

Trees & Tree Pruning Tools

If you need to get new tools for when it’s the right time to prune your trees, or you want to add new trees to your landscape, A&P Nursery has everything you need.  From the trees to gloves and fertilizer we can cover every step of the process.  In fact we partner with a number of landscaping companies that can do the work for you in planting  a new tree, tree trimming, and even tree pruning.

Call or visit one of our 4 locations today